"Around 8 or 9 in the morning..."
Hayward set off
north from Srinigar in November. The passes through the Hindu
Kush (literally, "Killer of Hindus"*)
were an unknown quantity, but he soon realized, while still far to
the south, that winter was too close. Normally, the latest any pass
in the southern ranges stays open is mid November, and many had
already been choked closed with snow, not to reopen until late
spring. But Hayward was nothing if not bound and determined. On the
earlier journey to Yarkand with Shaw, he'd slept out in the open,
without tent or even fire, in temperatures as low as 20° below
zero. He's survived starvation by eating, raw, his only yak, and
over the worst terrain in the world, with up to five feet of snow,
he'd managed thirty miles a day. We don't know how bad it was on
this journey to Gilgit and beyond, but the trip that normally took
10 to 20 days took over two months. Almost three hundred miles of
uncharted territory was covered by him, along the Indus and
then the torrential Gilgit river, never before seen by a
European. |
Peaks of the Hindu Kush |
Arriving
in Gilgit early in 1870, the garrison there had been expecting him,
and did their best to turn him back. The problem was that he needed
to cross not only a frontier, but a battle line. The Kashmiri forces
in Gilgit were engaged in a running war with the tribes of the
Dards, a misnamed but highly active tribe of Moslems to the north.
The Dogra of Kashmir were of a militaristic race, of the martial
Rajput caste, and there were also a number of Sikh warriors. The
Hindu of Dogra and the Moslem of Dard were sworn enemies. On both
sides, atrocities were common, and the hatred ran deep. So Hayward
was faced with the problem of crossing the midst of the battle zone,
neither alienating nor befriending either side. He was stuck in
Gilgit for a month, attempting, by means of letter and messenger, to
negotiate with the Dard chiefs for safe passage. Evasive and
suspicious, the only real fact to emerge from his correspondences
with them was that the passes through the Hindu Kush were closed by
snow anyway, and would remain so until at least mid-year. But
this news did not deter Hayward. After all, he had crossed the
Himalaya during the worst period of the year, and would do the same
with the Hindu Kush. Sorting
out the players in the game required the patience of Job and the
algebra of an Einstein. Dynastic families ruled, sometimes just
briefly, and brother and half-brother fought. The area of Yasin was
ruled by one of three brothers, each of whom took their turn at
banishing the one on the throne and sitting there himself.
Currently, Mir Wali held power. His older brother, Mulk Aman, had
been overthrown my Wali and was now fighting along side the Kashmiris. The
youngest brother, Pahlwan, would soon succeed Mir Wali and was
currently ensconced in Chitral, at the moment being ruled by the
brothers' uncle, Aman ul-Mulk. The latter exercised the most
power in the area, and in many ways dictated the fortunes of his
three fratricidal nephews. All four would factor in the Hayward story.
Finally,
Mir Wali said he could travel to Dardistan. There is evidence that
Mir Wali thought Hayward might be able to take his grievances back
to the Indian government and act as a spokesman for their (the
Dards) cause. An earlier treaty had forbidden the Maharajah of
Kashmir to lay any claim to the areas around Gilgit and Chitral, and
it was this transgression that Mir Wali hoped Hayward would report
back to the Governor General in Calcutta. Hayward cautioned the Mir
that he was not a government employee, and his entreaties would
probably be met with a deaf ear, but he agreed to try anyway. He and
Mir Wali became friends, hunting together, testing out the passes,
and gradually Hayward realized that even he could
not hope to cross them until the snow melted. Parting with the
Mir Wali, he returned to Gilgit to await warmer weather.
Impatient as usual, he headed south towards Kashmir in March, at
least six weeks before the passes could be expected to be clear.
Wading through over 50 miles of waist deep snow, with no horse
or baggage, he finally crossed back over and descended back into the
Punjab in late April with little more than a mild case of snow-blindness.
This lone Englishman had thus done, in the space of a few months,
what no human being in recorded history had ever done, from
Alexander the Great on - crossed the high Himalaya passes in both
directions, alone, in the dead of winter, with virtually no maps,
charts, supplies or other guidance. |
He
met with the Viceroy of India, one Lord Mayo, and presented the case of the Dards -
including reports of a massacre by the Dogra of fairly great atrocity a few
years earlier. There were other proofs of the Maharajah's feudal
intentions as well. But the Viceroy was stuck - he had no desire to
alienate the Kashmiri, when he would very soon call on their
assistance to help ward off the Russians, and he and official India
couldn't care less about Mir Wali and the Dards. Once again, intrigue and power play
under the surface would act to mold opinion and behavior. The
English didn't want the Hindu Kashmiris to take offence and
possibly switch their allegiance or become belligerent. The
Moslems in Dardistan found themselves oppressed by the Kashmiri, but
had no bargaining chips to offer the English, even though they
believed the English explorer would press their case. |
Hayward
then made the move that probably cost him his life. Rebuffed by
official India, he took matters into his own hands in an attempt to
bring public scrutiny to the Maharajah's cruelty. He published a
letter in the local newspaper, the Calcutta Pioneer, describing in great
detail the massacre seven years earlier at the Dard fort in Yasin
and the village of Madoori. He described the slaughter of pregnant
women, and the burning alive of nearly 40 wounded women. He told of
counting 147 skulls of children on the grounds, and the over 400
sets of skeletal remains. Normally, British India would not
have been overly concerned about a six-year old massacre of Moslems
by Hindus, but Heyward made great pains to describe the slaughtered
innocents as being 'fair of skin and blue of eye', not unlike any
random English schoolchild. Public sentiment was outraged
against the Maharajah of Kashmir and his troops. Lord Mayo and the
officials were apoplectic, not so much at the behavior of the Kashmiri, but at
Hayward's irresponsible printing of the evidence in the middle of
crucial negotiations with the ruler. Mayo tried to get Rawlinson to rein
in his charge, but Rawlinson said, basically, "He's out of
control and there's nothing I can do", |
On
June 10th, Hayward was warned one last time that if he persisted in
his attempts to cross the Himalaya and Hindu Kush to find the source
of the Oxus, he would do so at his own risk and without the
protection of either the British crown or the Royal Geographic
Society. He ignored the warnings and left Srinigar for the last
time. Oddly, he encountered little or no official resistance from
the Kashmiri. He traveled on, reaching Gilgit without mishap in
early July. He even then crossed the frontier and entered the valley
of Yasin , and the town of Darkot in mid July - just one last step
from his goal of the Oxus watershed and the Pamir. He'd passed
through the land of the Maharajah, and was back in the territory of
his friend Mir Wali of Dardistan. Or so he thought. On
the morning of July 18, 1870, George Hayward was attacked in
his tent after spending all night awake, crouched over a camp fire.
He'd beeen warned that his life was in danger. Hands bound behind
him, he was roughly marched a bit into the dense woods, and in a
small clearing, facing his captors wordlessly, a flash of silver in
the morning light took off his head. Word reached Gilgit in early
August and traveled south to India by the end of the month. Despite
their earlier warnings to the explorer, a massive investigation was
undertaken by every official and law enforcement agent in northern
India and Kashmir. Evidence mounted up, from stories and hearsay,
pointing at the Mir Wali. He and Hayward had evidently had an
argument the day before the murder, and Hayward had called the fiery
chieftain "a strong name". The British authorities
tended to support this version, backed up by evidence from the
Kashmiri, even though it was known that Hayward and the Mir were as
friendly as anyone in those circumstances. Hayward also, in
the tone of his letters, seemed to have no fear of his Islamic
acquaintance and hunting partner, and was more suspect of the
Maharajah himself, understandably. Gradually, however, other evidence came to light
over the next several months. Plots were uncovered implicating Mir
Wali, the Maharajah, even the cunning and cruel Aman Ul-Mulk of
Chitral. It seems inconceivable that there were three murder plots
with Hayward as the target, all carried out during the same time
frame. As the name of Mir Wali kept popping up, the Aman dispatched
the other brother Pahlwan to chase him out of Yasin, and Wali ended
up in Badakshan. The Dogra dispatched a lone soldier to the site of
the murder to recover the body and any other evidence. Hayward's
corpse was found under a crude pile of stones, the dry air of the
mountains keeping it relatively intact. His body was brought
back to Gilgit and buried in a corner of an orchard, a salute fired
over it by Dogra soldiers. The Maharaja even paid for a headstone. |
The
Dogra soldier who recovered the body also received what was probably
the only eye-witness account of the murder. Hayward, fearing for his
safety, had sat awake in his tent all night, but fell asleep just as
the sun was rising over the valley. The murderers burst in and
overpowered him, tying his hands behind him and a noose around his
neck. He was led, stumbling, about a mile in to the woods. The
ringleader cut him down with one stroke from his sword. It was
eight or nine in the morning. |
Later
evidence seems to confirm Hayward's fears, and implicate the
Maharajah of Kashmir in the murder. Incensed at the article in
the Pioneer about the massacre, and desirous to shed even more bad light on his Dard
enemies in Yasin, it would appear that the Dogra enlisted the aid of
renegade Dard ne'er-do-wells under the control of Aman ul-Mulk to
follow Hayward and his small party in to Darkot and commit the
murder. The two men then conspired to paint Mir Wali as the
perpetrator. The Chiltrali had no special love for his nephew, and
in fact probably feared him most of the three brothers. It must seem
ironic to the soul of Hayward that his body was recovered, and a
salute fired over it's final resting place, by the soldiers of the
very man most responsible his death. No official findings were ever
released, and the British government to this day refuses to point blame
at the Kashmiri forces.
|
Of
all the explorers of the 19th Century, celebrated in fact and
fiction, perhaps none were quite like Hayward. He did virtually all
of his work alone - not the recipient of a large party of support
and suppliers like Scott or Shackleton, nor did he have armies of
native bearers and guides like Burton, Speke and Livingstone. Alone,
he crossed the most difficult and treacherous mountain terrain in the world as no
"white man" ever had before, and few have since. His
letters, maps and charts back to the RGS were priceless, and helped
to open up the area to further exploration. Yet his exploits are
sadly, almost unknown today. |
Sir
Henry Newbolt later wrote a heroic poem about the event, "He
Fell Among Thieves", and it helped to enforce the Victorian
stereotype of the strong, silent hero being victimized by ruthless
natives...you can read it HERE.
- but remember it was written in the Victorian era, and there's no
lack of melodrama in it, notwithstanding the wildly inaccurate
references to Heyward's school days and sporting instincts. |
|
Gracious authors and owners of the
following sites have allowed me to borrow their lovely pictures. I
convey my utmost gratitude to them. |
AhaInfo.com, Hillstations - Gilgit
page |
Gorgeous
photos of Northern Pakistan and the Indus valley from Evert Wesker
- Thank you very much, Mr. Wesker! |
* Hindu
Kush, from the enormous number of (Indian) Hindu captives and slaves
who perished while being transported across the range by victorious
Islamic and other non-Hindu captors, between 800 and 1600 AD) |
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